Landlord guide

How to choose the right contractor for every repair

The most expensive part of a 2am emergency usually isn’t the repair — it’s calling the wrong trade, or the right trade with no vetting, in a panic. This guide maps every common rental repair to the contractor you should call first, what to ask on the phone, what it should cost, and the red flags that mean hang up. If the repair itself is the emergency, start with our 50-state emergency repairs guide for the safety steps and legal deadlines.

Researched September 2026. Prices are rough national ballparks — your market will differ. Licensing rules vary by state — verify with your state’s licensing board.

Build your go-to list before the emergency

2am is the worst possible time to find a plumber. Landlords who line up contractors before anything breaks get faster response times, better prices, and no panic-hiring. You need six names on speed dial: plumber, HVAC tech, electrician, locksmith, roofer, and a water-mitigation company.

The vetting checklist

• Licensed — look the number up on your state’s licensing board site, don’t just take their word for it. Requirements vary a lot by state and trade.
• Insured — general liability at minimum; workers’ comp if they bring a crew. Ask for the certificate.
• Written, itemized estimate before work starts — parts, labor, trip fee, and any after-hours surcharge, on paper.
• Warranty on labor — 30 days minimum; a year is standard for bigger jobs.
• Reviews and references — Google reviews plus a referral from another local landlord beats any ad.
• Pulls permits when required — a contractor who suggests skipping the permit is telling you who they are.

Emergency vs. scheduled pricing

• Trip / service-call fees: $75–$200 is typical, charged before any work begins. Many companies credit it toward the repair if you hire them.
• After-hours premium: weeknights, weekends, and holidays typically add 25–50% to labor; some trades charge 1.5–3x the standard rate.
• The cheapest lever you have: schedule anything non-urgent during business hours. A Tuesday-morning call often costs half of the Saturday-night version.
• Payment: never pay 100% upfront. Deposits of 10–33% are normal for big jobs; final payment on completion, after you’ve seen the work.

The trade map: who to call for what

For each issue: the trade to call first, when a second trade gets involved, the license to check, what to ask on the phone, and what it should cost.

1. Burst pipes and flooding

Two calls, not one: a plumber stops the leak, and a water-mitigation company extracts water and dries the space. Drying is a separate job from the pipe repair — and mold starts within 24–48 hours.

Call first: licensed plumber. Second trade: water-mitigation/restoration company the same day; later, a general contractor or drywall crew for the rebuild.

License to verify: state plumbing license. Mitigation companies should carry IICRC certification (the industry standard for water damage).

Ask on the phone

• “Are you licensed and insured — what’s your license number?”
• “What’s your emergency trip fee, and can you be here within a few hours?”
• “Will you give me an itemized written estimate before starting?”
• “Do you handle the dry-out, or do I need a separate mitigation company?”

Ballpark prices: plumber trip fee $75–$200; standard hourly $80–$130, after-hours $120–$300+; burst-pipe repair $500–$5,000; mitigation $500–$10,000 for a flooded basement, roughly $5,000 for an appliance-flood cleanup.

2. No heat

Call an HVAC technician. First check the free stuff: thermostat setting, breaker, and — for oil or propane — whether the tank is empty. An empty tank is the single most common “no heat” cause.

Call first: licensed HVAC/heating contractor. Second trade: electrician if the breaker panel or thermostat wiring is the problem; plumber if pipes froze as a result.

License to verify: state HVAC/mechanical license; EPA Section 608 certification for any refrigerant work.

Ask on the phone

• “What’s your diagnostic fee — and is it credited toward the repair?”
• “How old is this unit, and at what point would you recommend replacement over repair?”
• “Do you stock parts for [brand], or will this need to be ordered?”
• “What’s your warranty on the repair?”

Ballpark prices: diagnostic $89–$129 (some charge $100–$250); typical repair $150–$600; capacitor $100–$250; blower motor $400–$900; compressor $1,200–$4,500. Use the 50% rule: if the repair costs more than half of a new system, replace it.

3. No water

Diagnose the source before dispatching anyone. On city water, call the water utility first — it may be a main break or shutoff, not your pipes. On a well, call a well-pump specialist.

Call first: plumber (municipal supply) or well-pump contractor (private well). Second trade: electrician if the pressure switch or control box failed.

License to verify: plumbing license; pump specialists are licensed as plumbers or pump installers depending on the state.

Ask on the phone

• “How do you diagnose whether this is a supply issue or inside the house?”
• “If it’s the well pump, do you pull and replace — and is there a depth charge?”
• “Do you handle the electrical/control side too, or do I need an electrician?”

Ballpark prices: typical small plumbing jobs $125–$350; well-pump repair $373–$1,622 (average ~$973); well-pump replacement $2,800–$6,000 (average ~$4,000).

4. Gas leak

The gas utility (or 911) comes first — they respond free and shut the gas off. Then you hire a licensed plumber or gas fitter for the repair. Never let a tenant or a handyman touch gas lines.

Call first: gas utility. Second trade: licensed plumber/gas fitter for the repair; the utility re-lights and inspects afterward.

License to verify: gas work typically requires a plumbing license with a gas endorsement or a dedicated gas-fitter license — confirm with your state board.

Ask on the phone

• “Are you licensed for gas line work specifically?”
• “Will you pressure-test the line after the repair?”
• “Do you coordinate the utility re-light, or do I need to?”

Ballpark prices: gas-leak repair $350–$2,000 depending on where the leak is and how much line is involved.

5. Sewage backup

Call a sewer/drain specialist — many plumbers do this, but ask specifically. And know where your responsibility ends: if the blockage is in the city main (usually past the property line or curb), the sewer utility fixes it free.

Call first: drain/sewer specialist. Second trade: restoration company for cleanup and sanitizing; plumber for pipe repair if the line is broken or collapsed.

License to verify: plumbing license. Insist on a camera inspection before anyone quotes digging.

Ask on the phone

• “Will you camera the line before quoting a repair?”
• “Is the blockage on my side or the city’s?”
• “If the line needs replacing, what’s the per-foot cost — and do you do trenchless replacement?”

Ballpark prices: drain clearing $100–$400; main-line clearing $300–$1,500; sewer-line repair or replacement $3,000–$7,000+.

6. Electrical hazards

Sparking, burning smells, or dead outlets across multiple rooms: call a licensed electrician the same day. Electrical is one of the most strictly licensed trades in every state — this is never handyman territory.

Call first: licensed electrician. Second trade: the power utility if the problem is at the service drop or meter.

License to verify: state electrical license (journeyman or master, depending on the state). Look it up — don’t take their word.

Ask on the phone

• “Are you a licensed electrician — journeyman or master?”
• “What’s your diagnostic fee?”
• “Will you pull a permit for this work?”
• “Is it safe to leave things as they are until you arrive — or should the tenant kill the breaker?”

Ballpark prices: service call $75–$150; hourly $50–$130; panel and rewiring work varies widely — get it itemized.

7. Fire and smoke damage

Call a fire-restoration company — not a general handyman. They handle soot, smoke odor, and structural assessment. Call your insurer the same day; this is almost always a claim.

Call first: fire/smoke restoration specialist. Second trades: electrician (wiring inspection), roofer (if the roof is compromised), general contractor for the rebuild.

License to verify: IICRC certification in fire and smoke restoration; state contractor licensing for rebuild work.

Ask on the phone

• “Are you IICRC-certified in fire and smoke restoration?”
• “Do you work directly with insurance adjusters?”
• “Will you provide a line-item scope for the insurance claim?”
• “How do you handle odor — sealing vs. masking?”

Ballpark prices: fire and smoke jobs typically run into the thousands and vary enormously with the extent of damage — get the adjuster involved before authorizing major work.

8. Broken locks and break-ins

After a break-in, a locksmith re-secures the unit immediately. If the door or frame is damaged, you’ll also need a carpenter or door contractor — a new deadbolt in a split frame is security theater.

Call first: licensed locksmith. Second trade: carpenter/door contractor for frame or door damage.

License to verify: locksmith licensing varies a lot — some states require it, some don’t. Check your state board either way.

Ask on the phone

• “What’s the total price including the service call — not just the per-lock price?”
• “Do you carry common deadbolt brands on the truck?”
• “Can you rekey everything to a single key?”
• “How fast can you get here — and is there an after-hours surcharge?”

Ballpark prices: service call $40–$80; per-cylinder rekey $25–$50; a typical house rekey $150–$310.

9. No AC in extreme heat

Same trade as no heat: an HVAC technician. Most companies do both sides of the system, so your heating contractor is usually your cooling contractor too.

Call first: HVAC technician. Second trade: electrician if the disconnect or breaker is the issue.

License to verify: state HVAC license; EPA Section 608 for refrigerant handling.

Ask on the phone

• “What’s your diagnostic fee — and is it credited toward the repair?”
• “Is this a refrigerant leak — and what does a recharge cost if so?”
• “How old is the unit?” (Then apply the 50% rule below.)

Ballpark prices: diagnostic $89–$129; typical repair $150–$600; capacitor $100–$250; refrigerant recharge $200–$600; compressor $1,200–$4,500. Full system replacement runs several thousand dollars — if the repair tops 50% of replacement cost on an older unit, replace it.

10. No working toilet

One toilet out in a multi-bath unit is routine; the only toilet in the unit is urgent. Either way, it’s a plumber.

Call first: plumber. Second trade: rarely needed — a carpenter only if the flange or subfloor is rotted.

License to verify: state plumbing license.

Ask on the phone

• “Is this a clog, a fill-valve issue, or does the toilet need replacing?”
• “If it needs a new toilet, what’s the total installed price?”
• “Do you charge the trip fee on top of the repair?”

Ballpark prices: toilet repair $100–$300; new toilet installed $250–$800.

11. Roof leaks

Call a roofer. The key question is patch vs. replacement — on any quote over $1,000, a second opinion routinely saves thousands.

Call first: roofing contractor. Second trade: water-mitigation for interior damage; gutter contractor if poor drainage caused it.

License to verify: roofing license requirements vary by state — check your board.

Ask on the phone

• “Is this a repair, or does the roof need replacing — and why?”
• “Will you show me photos of the damage?”
• “What’s the warranty on the repair vs. a full replacement?”
• “Do you handle the interior water damage too, or do I need someone else?”

Ballpark prices: minor patch $150–$500; leak repair $400–$1,900 (national average ~$1,150); full replacement $5,500–$15,000.

12. Small jobs: the handyman

Caulking, drywall patches, dripping faucets, door adjustments, detector batteries — a good handyman handles all of it. But know the boundary: anything gas, anything inside the electrical panel, and anything requiring a permit goes to the licensed trade.

Call first: handyman. When not the handyman: gas lines, electrical panels, and permitted work — call the licensed trade.

License to verify: most states don’t license handymen specifically, but many cap the dollar value a handyman can take per job — verify your state’s limit.

Ask on the phone

• “Is this within what you’re comfortable doing, or should I call a licensed plumber/electrician?”
• “Flat price or hourly — and what exactly is included?”
• “Do you carry general liability insurance?”

Ballpark prices: often $60–$125/hour or flat per job — varies widely by market.

Red flags that mean hang up

These apply to every trade on this page:

• No license number — or a number they won’t let you verify.
• Cash only, no receipt. No paper trail means no warranty and no recourse.
• No written estimate. Verbal quotes grow; written ones don’t.
• Demands full payment upfront. Deposits are normal; 100% in advance is not.
• Pressure tactics — “this price is only good today.”
• No insurance. If they get hurt on your property without coverage, that can become your problem.
• A bid far below everyone else. The cheapest bid usually means skipped steps — and you’ll pay for the redo.

Quick answers

Which contractor do I call for a burst pipe?

Two trades: a licensed plumber to stop the leak, and a water-mitigation company the same day to extract water and dry the space. Drying is a separate job from the pipe repair, and mold starts within 24 to 48 hours.

Who do I call for a gas leak — a plumber or the gas company?

The gas utility (or 911) first — they respond free and shut the gas off. Then a licensed plumber or gas fitter does the repair. Never let a tenant or a handyman touch gas lines.

How do I check if a contractor is licensed?

Search “[your state] contractor license lookup” — every state board has one. Requirements vary widely by state and trade, so verify the specific license for the work, not just a general business license.

What should I ask before hiring a contractor?

License number and proof of insurance; an itemized written estimate before work starts; warranty on labor; and the total price including trip fees and after-hours surcharges. For big jobs, ask whether they’ll pull the required permits.

Why is emergency pricing so much higher?

After-hours, weekend, and holiday premiums typically add 25–50% or more to labor, and trip fees run $75–$200 before work starts. The cheapest lever you have is scheduling non-urgent work during business hours.

When should I repair vs. replace an HVAC system or water heater?

The 50% rule: if the repair costs more than half of a new unit, replace it. Factor in age — a compressor failure on a 12-year-old AC or a rusted-out 11-year-old water heater is a replacement, not a repair.